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The Shoemaking Process
 
 
Fitting Tips
FITTING TIPS

The 15 Key Test Points for Fit

1. Overall length. A check should be made for the longest toe, which
can mean any of the first three toes. On average, the space allowed
should be at least a 1/2 of an inch. Also make sure there is adequate
toe spread room. Obviously, this will vary with the toe style of the
shoe.


2. Heel-to-ball. Check for correct mutual ball flex action between
the foot and shoe in walking. The big toe joint should fit snugly
into the ball "pocket" of the shoe.


3. Ball-to-toe. You cannot assume that if you've measured for overall
length and heel-to-ball, then ball-to-toe fit is automatically
correct. There is no "standard" ball-to-toe or toe length
measurements; therefore, a checkpoint must be tested. Experiment with
different lasts which may help to achieve both a better overall and
heel-to-ball fit.


4. Heel-to-outer-ball. This is an important yet commonly overlooked
fitting check point. The outer ball joint should fit precisely into
its designated pocket. If both the inner and outer ball joints are in
proper position in the shoe, we have the ideal situation for correct
ball flex angle of both foot and shoe in walking. This assures
comfort and correct tread.


5. Ball width. The width of the ball of the insole to comply with the
tread width of the ball of the foot. This is determined by the
comfort level of the customer and the knowledge of the shoe by the
fitter.


6. Heel fit. The fit of the heel of the foot into the space, sides
and back, outlined by the counter. The fit should be snugly cradled.


7. Back of heel. The top edge of the counter should not bite into the
heel tendon.


8. Quarter top edges. The topling of the quarter beneath the ankle
bone should not touch the ankle bone themselves.


9. Toplines. The top rime of the shoe should fit snugly against the
foot.


10. Vamp room. This is the area across the ball at toes at the top of
the shoe. In a lower heel shoe there should be a mild looseness of
space allowance here to permit the mild creasing required for each
foot-flexing step at the ball. For higher heels, much less space
allowance is required.


11. Tip of little toe. The little toe should be allowed a certain
amount of freedom to prevent discomfort which could result in corns.


12. Instep and waist. This is where volume or "inner space" fit is
tested. Both the instep and waist (between ball and instep) must fit
snugly without wrinkles or torsion lines.


13. Throat and throatline. The throatline is the rim of the forward
edge of the shoe's throat. The throatlines should mildly hug against
the foot. The lower the heel the more room it can accommodate;
whereas, it can be snugger in a high heel shoe.


14. Arch fit. The arch should fit comfortably against the foot.


15. Tread. Take a walk test to see if the shoe is securely and flatly
balanced.
Source: Professional Shoe Fitting by: National Shoe Retailers Association